Gucci's Next Journey: Embracing Practical Elegance with Sabato De Sarno
Under the fresh creative direction of Sabato De Sarno, Gucci is embarking on an exciting new era. Moving away from the nostalgia-tinged maximalism that defined the brand in the late 2010s, De Sarno's debut at Milan Fashion Week has set a new course for Gucci - one that combines practicality with a refined sense of luxury.
The Shift in Aesthetics
De Sarno's first menswear collection, following a striking womenswear debut, marks a significant departure from the whimsical extravagance of his predecessor, Alessandro Michele. The new Gucci man embraces a more overtly sensual wardrobe with clean-cut suiting adorned with the Gucci monogram, unbuttoned satin shirts, and an array of patent peacoats, trenches, and satin bomber jackets. Rather than overwhelming opulence, the new Gucci sparkles subtly with diamante-embellished trousers and vests, adding just the right touch of glamour.
Refined Details and Practical Luxury
De Sarno's approach leans towards a low-key silhouette. The Gucci logo is used sparingly yet effectively, seen in subtle raised letters on leather bags or as repeating patterns on slim suits. The iconic double-G belt remains a staple, signifying continuity amidst change. This new direction is a strategic move by Kering, aiming to align Gucci with both profitability and broader market appeal.
Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci is about updating classic pieces with discreet, contemporary twists. The menswear collection, titled “Ancora,” meaning "still" or "again," reflects a forward-thinking approach, aligning with contemporaries like Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta. The focus is on today's quiet luxury aesthetic, a departure from the '70s glamour of Michele's and Tom Ford's Gucci.
The Future of Gucci
De Sarno's vision for Gucci strikes a balance between practicality and luxury. His debut collections have set the stage for a more relatable and contemporary Gucci. This shift is not just in clothing but also in accessories, with a bold new take on the house’s beloved horsebit loafer. Sabato De Sarno's Gucci feels decisively contemporary, yet grounded in the brand's rich heritage.
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